Mole Is Never Ready for Its Close-Up

My friend S. discovered, probably before anyone else did, that all you have to do to get me to cook for you is send me a link to a good food blog with pretty pictures and say “mmmm…” I think the deciding factor in that case was an apple cake recipe from 101 Cookbooks, which served the secondary purpose of introducing me to a great recipe source. Sometime last fall, I adapted her recipe for Borlotti Bean Mole with Roast Winter Squash, which I made again this week. I can’t say it’s a very pretty meal, and I also can’t say how authentic this version is, but I can say that it is worth the time it takes to prepare.

Mole is that rare food that I love and am capable of making but yet am never confident in preparing. It is such an odd combination of ingredients that I never trust they will all meld together into the rich, spicy, theobromic goodness that I love so much. But this version is a good ‘un, a keeper if you will, and it’s what I made last night. The thing I forgot from making it the first time is that it takes a loooong time to make. Not difficult work, but this is not really designed to be a weeknight dinner.

Start with some winter squash (delicata here), or alternately sweet potato, in bite-sized cubes. Roast in olive oil until it’s just barely tender.

You’ll also need some chard (kale works, too). Not a whole bunch, though.

While the squash is cooking, caramelize some onion and hot peppers in butter. This takes time, at least 20 minutes, ideally 30, over medium-low heat. I generally do not caramelize onions, ever, because I don’t have the patience for it, as much as I like the flavor.

Add some minced garlic, then a can of tomatoes and some paprika, and simmer 10-15 minutes.

Then here is where it gets weird. Or not weird. It’s just how you make a mole. Add almond butter and cocoa powder, and stir it up to sort of let it all melt in.

Then in goes that squash you roasted, plus a couple of cups of pinto beans (or cranberry beans), and the chard leaves, cut into wide strips. Stir it up, cover, and stick it in the oven for a good 2 hours at 250F. You can get away with less time if you omit the stems of the chard, but the longer the better, really.

Meanwhile, since you don’t have anything better to do, and you’re not eating for 2 hours anyway, cook up a pot of polenta. If you’re feeling ambitious, pour it into a baking dish and let it set up so you can cut it into funny shapes. (Round is funny, right?)

Then, 2 hours later, here comes the mole!

Serve on top of the polenta.

It is a singularly unattractive dish. It looks like any number of things you don’t ever want to think about eating, and since you know what went in it, it’s understandable if you’re hesitant. But give it a go. It’s very rich, very hearty, and delicious.