It is Labor Day, and I have had really not much of a summer. Admittedly, that was by choice. I started a new business this year–the Astoria Bookshop opened its doors on August 21st!–and it’s the kind of enterprise that doesn’t really allow for picnics in Central Park or weekends spent at the shore. Thankfully, I’ve been too happily busy with work and customers to dwell on my lack of a tan, or the fact that I didn’t swim in the ocean even once this year.
Even so, Connie and I decided that we needed a bit of an end-of-summer feast. So we are having catfish tacos with cabbage slaw, fresh tomatoes, and ricotta salata, with tinto verano and stuffed clams.
These are not just any clams, though. These are Clams Tomasso, my dad’s (superior) rendition of clams casino, one of the first dishes I learned to cook as a child. They are tightly bound up with my conception of summer. Until tonight, I had never made them anywhere except the kitchen at my family’s house at the Jersey shore. But I decided that if I can’t get myself there, then I can bring a little piece of the shore to the Upper East Side.
Start with a bunch of cherrystones. These are usually the largest variety available. Scrub them and stream them open, and hope you didn’t get any duds. Each whole clam makes about one stuffed clam, so think about how many people you’re feeding and that will let you know how many to buy.
When they are all open and cool enough to handle, cut out the meat and put it in the food processor. Pulse together with some roughly chopped onion and bell pepper, plus a little garlic, a couple handfuls of breadcrumbs, some olive oil, and any seasonings that seem appropriate (cayenne, old bay, or whatever you like). Our usual ratio is 18 clams to one pepper and one onion, but do it up the way you like it. Just don’t go too heavy on the breadcrumbs or it will taste like a cheap crabcake.
Once everything is to your liking, break the clam shells in half and spoon the mixture into them. You’ll probably only need half of them, depending on how much or little you bulked up the filing. Top each one with a small piece of bacon and bake on a cookie sheet at 350F for 25-30 minutes.
Finish under the broiler for another 5. Be sure to let them cool slightly before digging in.
These clams are ideally eaten in your neighbor’s front yard while drinking wine from a plastic glass with a fish on it and watching the sunset over the bay. But in a pinch, your couch will do.
The CSA Files 