The only thing I knew about Brussels sprouts as a kid was that my dad didn’t like them.* I guess I also knew what they looked like (itty bitty cabbages!), but I don’t think I ate one until well into my 20s. My first experience might have been at Momofuku Ssam Bar, where at the time they were served roasted with dried hot peppers and possibly pine nuts. They were chewy and crispy and spicy and wonderful. Ever since then, roasted and a little spicy is my favorite to make them.
This recipe is an example of the Thomas Jefferson School of Carnivorism. That particular founding father espoused a belief that meat should be used sparingly, as a condiment rather than the centerpiece of the meal. I find that bacon is particularly suited to that treatment. Take a couple of pieces and cut them up into smallish bite-sized pieces. Place them in a single layer in a large baking dish, and stick it in a hot oven while you trim the sprouts. (Tip of the hat to Martha Stewart for this particular technique.)
You’ll want to have smallish sprouts here. They don’t have to be teeny tiny, but small enough that you only have to cut them in half to make them bite sized. Of course, if teeny tiny is what you have (the ones we get from Stoneledge are usually on that end of the spectrum, so I’m taking advantage of the absence of a harvest by buying bigger ones), then just peel off any iffy looking leaves and call it a day, no halving necessary. By the time they’re prepped, the bacon should have rendered nicely. Pull the dish out of the oven, drizzle in some olive oil to mix with the bacon fat (mmm… bacon fat…) and then toss in the sprouts. Also some salt, a few garlic cloves, crushed and peeled, and a couple of whole dried red peppers.
Let this roast a while longer–at least 20 minutes, though it’ll depend on just how small your sprouts are, and how charred you like them. When they’re almost-but-not-quite ready, add in a good pour of maple syrup and a chopped apple–something tart and firm, as you don’t want it to go completely to mush–and stick the dish back in the oven for 5 more minutes.
Meanwhile, cook up some pasta. What kind doesn’t really matter, but cut shapes are more suited to this recipe than something like linguine or fettucine. Save some of the pasta water before you drain it, and when you take the sprouts out of the oven the last time, pour in that water. Most of the water will cook off or be absorbed by the veggies, but it’ll help mix up all the flavors before you pour it over the pasta. Grate on some cheese (I like pecorino romano here) and serve.
I think even my dad might try this one.
*It turns out I didn’t even know THAT much, since my dad has reminded me that it’s okra and eggplant he hates; Brussels sprouts are a lifelong favorite.
Brussels Sprouts, Apple (& Bacon) Pasta
serves 3-4
8 ounces cut pasta
1 lb Brussels sprouts
2 slices bacon
2-3 Tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic
3-4 dried hot peppers
1 tart crisp apple
2 Tbsp maple syrup
1/4 c grated Pecorino Romano
salt
Preheat the oven to 400F.
Put on a pot of water to boil for the pasta. Salt it well, and cook according to the instructions on the package. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain & rinse under cool water until the rest of the dish is ready.
Cut up the bacon into 1/2″ pieces and place them in a large baking dish in a single layer. Stick it in the oven while you trim the Brussels sprouts. Cut off the ends and peel off any bruised outer leaves. If they are bigger than bite-sized, cut them in half. Crush the garlic cloves with the flat of a knife and peel off the skins. Take the baking dish out of the oven, pour in the olive oil, and add the sprouts, garlic, and hot peppers. Sprinkle with salt, stir, and return to the oven for about 20 minutes.
Core and chop an apple. Check the sprouts for doneness and when they seem mostly cooked, add in the apple pieces and the maple syrup. Stir and return to the oven for another 5 minutes. Stir in the reserved pasta cooking water, and then combine with the cooked pasta. Top with the grated cheese, taste for salt, and serve.
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