Tag Archives: cheese
Getting Creative with Squash
Months ago, it came up in conversation with my girlfriend that she doesn’t like zucchini. This was pretty early on in our relationship, and while it wasn’t the kind of dealbreaker statement that “I don’t like cheese” would have been (can you imagine?!), I knew even then that it would require some creativity this summer. If you belong to a CSA, you will know what I mean. Zucchini–and all forms of summer squash–arrives in 2-, 3-, and 4-pound piles. Weeks go by this time of year where I eat it every day. Hoping that C. would be joining me for at least a couple of meals a week, and knowing I can’t eat 4 pounds of squash myself before the next delivery, I figured I’d have to get creative.
Design-Your-Own Quick Bread
Ceci n’est pas un gnoccho
Dorie calls them gnocchi a la parisienne, which is fine, because they are not your Italian grandmother’s gnocchi. I never had an Italian grandmother, or a Parisian one, but I had a Viennese one. And truthfully, these dumplings remind me a lot of her farina dumplings, which she traditionally served in chicken soup.
Except that, then again, the finished dish is kind of like macaroni and cheese. So really, you’re not going to go wrong, no matter what you call it. The dumplings are made by boiling butter and water together, then mixing in some flour, and then some eggs. Let the dough rest (or not), and then boil teaspoonfuls in salted water, in smallish batches.- my large-ish Corningware dish is approximately half the size of a 9″ pie plate
- next time I make farina dumplings, I’m going to use this same method
*by which I mean, coat the dish with butter and then sprinkle with grated parmesan, the better to prevent sticking. Many recipes refer to buttering and flouring a cake pan. This is better. Also good, for some recipes: sesame seeds.
Not Your Grandmother’s Flan
Ok, yes, it is blue cheese (gorgonzola, specifically), and I guess there are more people with an aversion to that particular variety than to, say, cheddar. I am quite impressed that so many people signed up for a project that included something they were so nervous about–and that so many followed through and made the damn thing. But for me, this is recipe a small piece of bliss. And incredibly simple to make.
Normal flan is not my thing. Give me a creme brulee any day of the week, but keep your soggy flans. Maybe if they all had the crunch of toasted walnuts on top, I’d be a flan fan. For this savory one, you need some cooked winter squash, eggs, and milk. If you’ve got a can of pumpkin, wonderful. If not, or if you’d rather use up some of the excess of butternut you’ve been getting in your CSA box (ahem), roast it or steam it and stick it in the blender with the other ingredients.Sprinkle on top some crumbled gorgonzola and chopped walnuts. Stick in a hot oven for as long as it takes. The size of my ramekins was not the size of Dorie’s, so the timing was not accurate, but it’s easy enough to see when they start to puff up and pull away from the sides, and also when a knife comes out clean. Serve with something green, just for the sake of appearances.**
**By which I mean visual aesthetics. I would never order you to eat your vegetables. Plus, pumpkin is a vegetable already, so you’ve got that covered.
Apple Cheddar Take 2
I have also expounded on the brilliance of Bill Yosses before. This recipe comes from his new cookbook, which is written with the wonderful Melissa Clark, of the Times‘ A Good Appetite column. And as before, Chef Bill has some tricks up his sleeve that make all the difference in the world. To start with, peel, core, and slice the apples–and then bake them for 20 minutes, just long enough so they’re dry to the touch.
Let them cool while you mix up the rest of the batter.
Add the apples to the bowl and stir until just combined.
Spread out the dough on a floured work surface, and roll it into a rough circle. Slice it up into 6 wedges, and spread them out on a baking sheet.
Brush them with an egg wash and sprinkle with sugar, then bake for 30 minutes at 350F, and you’re done.
It should be noted that scones are ideally consumed on the day they are baked, so be prepared to share with some friends, or to eat a lot of scones yourself. Either way, you can’t really lose.Improv Night
I bought some sheets of fresh pasta at my favorite Italian market, which were about as wide as my baking dish, and quite a bit longer. I trimmed them to be the right size before parboiling for a minute, only to be reminded that things get bigger when they’ve absorbed some water. So my pasta sheets wound up a bit too big; I decided not to care.
The order of the layers doesn’t really matter, I don’t think. I started with a little tomato sauce in the bottom of the dish, because that’s how mom does it. Then a layer of pasta, followed by some of the kale/ricotta mixture.Next, some roasted squash (acorn) mashed up with chopped fresh sage.
Then thin slices of fresh mozzarella, a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce, and a generous handful of grated parmesan. Repeat, with three layers of filling sandwiched between 4 layers of noodle. Top the last pasta layer with tomato sauce and parmesan, then cover with foil and bake.
2 c tomato sauce
1-1 1/2 c ricotta
1/2 lb mozzarella (fresh is awesome, but dried and grated works just as well)
1 egg
1 lb kale
1/4 c caramelized onions
2 acorn squash, roasted
grated parmesan
fresh sage
salt & pepper Preheat the oven to 400F.
Parboil the pasta and put in a bowl of cool water to hold while you get the rest of the elements together. (Or, alternately, use no-boil lasagne, which is practically all you can find these days anyway.)
Remove the stems from the kale and blanch the leaves in salted water. Drain and chop coarsely. Mix together with the ricotta, egg, and onions. Season with salt & pepper.
Chop up the sage finely and mix it up with the roasted squash.
If using fresh mozzarella, slice it as thin as you can.
Pour a bit of tomato sauce in the bottom of your (9″ x 12″) lasagne pan. Add a layer of noodles, followed by layers of the kale/ricotta, the squash mixture, the mozzarella, more tomato sauce, and a handful of grated parmesan. Slap on another noodle layer, squish it down a little to get out any air, and repeat the layers. And again. On top of the final layer of pasta, pour the last of the tomato sauce and some more grated parmesan.
Cover with tin foil (tented, if you can, so the sauce and cheese don’t just stick to it) and bake for 35-45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake another 15 minutes.
Serve, traditionally, with garlic bread.
Top Your Own Pizza Party
Really, though, the point is the pizza. Because of the limited amount of space in my oven, and also in my kitchen, we made our pizzas in pairs. But pizza only takes 10 minutes to cook (which I know to be a fact, from my summer working at Panzone’s) and cheese retains heat better than just about anything, so we all still ate at roughly the same time. I’d made pesto, and tomato sauce (from the many pounds of tomatoes A. and I picked up at Stoneledge), roasted peppers, made “oven-candied” tomatoes, cooked up some sausage, caramelize some onions, and bough pepperoni and mushrooms.
Enough with the preamble. Here are our beautiful creations:For dessert, we had cookies and ice cream. There had been a request for a repeat of the pink peppercorn ice cream I made back in May, and who am I to deny someone ice cream? It’s a pretty basic vanilla custard base, with the addition of a tablespoon of ground pink peppercorns (separate post to come on that, probably). And then when you make ice cream, you wind up with a lot of unused egg whites–so I was pleased to find a recipe for something called Chocolate Puddle Cookies on 101 Cookbooks that requires a lot of them.
More photos of everything here.
It was, as always, a lovely evening in wonderful company. I am so, so glad that we started Cook Club. I think we could probably be eating take out and drinking box wine (not to knock box wine–there are some really good ones out there) and have just as good a time together, but thankfully, we have the option to have homemade meals with good friends, and who could ask for more than that?Cheesy Apple Goodness
I started with Deborah Madison’s cheddar muffin recipe, figuring that if you can add a cup of fresh corn kernels (one of her suggested variations), then adding a cup of chopped apples in more or less (more) kernel-sized pieces should work, too. In addition to that, you’ll need some flour, cornmeal, baking powder, grated cheddar, eggs, milk, vegetable oil, and honey. Oh, and some fresh ground pepper, which was sort of an afterthought, but I’m really glad I included it.
Mix together the dry ingredients in one bowl, the wet ingredients in another, and have the cheese and the apple bits ready. The egg/milk mixture goes into the flour/cornmeal, and is fully combined. Then stir in the grated cheese. For this, I think the sharpest cheese available is best, to contrast with the tart sweetness of the apples. And it should be grated on the coarse side.
Next, in go the apples. I prefer to leave the skins on, especially if they’re red apples, because it’s prettier. And on that subject: Macintoshes would be great. These were (I think) Macoun. Granny Smiths or something else tart would be lovely, also.
Then you just need to pour it into your muffin tin. I always prefer to use paper liners, on account of being lazy. Buttering and flouring muffin tins is tedious work, and cleaning them out is even more so. But do whatever you like.
Bake at 375F for 20-25 minutes, until a tester comes out clean. (The one thing I’ve noticed about my beloved Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone is that I always need to round down the temperature and/or cooking time on muffin recipes. I suspect that maybe my muffin tins are a bit smaller than Ms. Madison’s, but it is a consistent adjustment I always have to keep in mind, and it’s easy enough if I actually remember.)
Apple Cheddar Muffins
adapted from Deborah Madison
Makes 10-11 muffins, depending on the size of your tin
1/2 c cornmeal
2 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp fresh ground pepper
2 eggs
1 c milk
2 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 1/2 Tbsp honey
2 c grated sharp cheddar
1 c chopped apples Preheat the oven to 375F. Prepare a muffin tin, either with paper liners or by buttering & flouring.
Combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. In a smaller bowl, mix up the eggs, milk, vegetable oil, and honey. Grate the cheddar coarsely and chop up the apples into pieces, no larger than 1/2″ cubes.
Pour the wet ingredients into the dry, and mix until just combined. Add in the cheddar, and then the apples.
Spoon into the muffin tin, and bake for 20-15 minutes, until a tester comes out clean.
Summer of My Greek Zucchini Pie
To which you add a few cups of grated zucchini, after tossing them with salt and letting it drain in a colander for an hour.
Mix them together thoroughly, and add some olive oil.
Genius that I am, I forgot the olive oil. I don’t think the pie/cake/whatsit was irreparably harmed, but I’d recommend following the actual recipe next time.
Either way, then add some eggs and milk.Mix in some cornmeal, and spread in an oiled baking dish. Theoretically this should be something round, so you can still call it a pita, which is Greek for “pie.” Obviously, I went in a different direction.
Bake for about 40 minutes at 375F. Serve with a salad of tomatoes, sweet peppers, cucumbers, and feta, dressed with lemon juice and olive oil. Just like the lady doing the demonstration at the Union Square Market, because kitchen inspiration comes from all directions.
Zymaropita (cheesy zucchini cornbread)
Adapted from The Glorious Foods of Greece: Traditional Recipes from the Islands, Cities, and Villages
1/2 T salt
6 oz feta
3 oz ricotta
1/2 c Greek yogurt (or other strained yogurt)
1/4 c olive oil
3 eggs
1/2 c milk
salt & pepper
2+ c cornmeal Mix zucchini & salt, place in a colander, and let drain for about 1 hour. Squeeze out as much water as you can.
Preheat the oven to 375F.
Combine the cheeses & yogurt in a large bowl. Mix in the grated zucchini and olive oil. Season with salt & pepper.
Beat together the eggs & milk, then add to the zucchini mix.
Slowly add cornmeal, incorporating about 1/2 cup at a time, until you have a wet dough.
Oil a 9″x13″ baking dish. Press the dough into the dish and bake 40-45 minutes, until golden brown. Alternately, use a 9″ round cake pan, and bake for more like 50-60 minutes.