As anyone with a farm share–or a backyard garden–can tell you, starting about July, there will be an embarassment of summer squash. It is a wonderful vegetable, incredibly adaptable to just about any recipe you can concoct. It generally just absorbs the flavors of the preparation, which is a nice way of rephrasing my dad’s assessment, that it is kind of bland. But that’s actually a good thing, because you’ll have so much of the damn stuff that you’ll need to be cooking it all the fracking time. And if you only had one or two options, you’d be getting very sick of zucchini very quickly. Like last year when we had neverending cabbage, which meant cole slaw, stir fry, and more cole slaw. But 2 (or even 3 or 4) pounds of summer squash can be put to so many good uses that it’s hard to get resentful. Soups, salads, breads, stews, pasta dishes (you can even use it in place of pasta!). As long as your pantry is well stocked, there’s really no end to what you can make.
For example, you can make this olive oil cake, which comes from Gina DePalma, the pastry chef at Babbo. And it will barely use up a pound of summer squash, so you’ll still have plenty to put in your salad for lunch, thereby justifying baking the cake in the first place. (Cake + salad = balanced diet.) As if I need justification for these things. One bakes a cake because it’s Monday. Or Tuesday. Or because all the pie is gone and one must have SOME sort of baked good lying around lest the earth stop rotating on its axis. (Can I start my own religion with that as the core belief? That the sun will not rise unless we keep baking? Way better than human sacrifices, I think.)
But I digress. Cakeward bound.
I got zucchini this week, but truthfully you can use any variety of summer squash you find. The green flecks in the batter are nice, though, because they serve as a sort of proof that yes! There are vegetables in this cake! It has tangible nutritional value!
There are also toasted, ground walnuts. You’ll want them to cool fully before you grind them up, though, or you just get walnut butter.
Then you’ve got your sugar, flour (whole wheat pastry this time, for no very good reason), eggs, and a pile of spices. For some reason I haven’t bothered to buy ground ginger in, well, ever, so I used fresh ginger root. The only other atypical ingredient is the olive oil, in lieu of butter.Â
Wait, zucchini? Walnuts? Olive oil? This is really just a salad in disguise…
Anyway. Mix up the flour, leaveners, and the spices. I might cut down on the spices next time, though the gingerbread-y aroma has its appeal to be sure.
Then use a hand mixer on the eggs, olive oil, and sugar (and ginger root. SIX to 1 replacement rate on this, meaning 2 tablespoons of fresh for every teaspoon of dry).
Mix until the sugar is properly mixed in, and it starts to get a little frothy. Olive oil doesn’t get creamy like butter, but it’s a similar thickened feel you’re going for. Then dump in the flour mixture and stir to combine.
Meanwhile, grate the zucchini, and grind up the now-cooled walnuts.
Mix both of those into the batter and pour it into the dish of your choice. The recipe formally calls for a bundt, but I wasn’t in a bundt mood. A 9×13 lasagne pan works, too, you just need to cut the baking time by 5 or 10 minutes. Just make sure it’s oiled and floured.
While that’s baking, prepare the lemon glaze. I used agave nectar instead of granulated sugar, which definitely made it easier to incorporate all the ingredients, but it probably affected the texture. Which I can live with. It’s just not as crunchy as I was expecting.
And here, ladies and gentlemen, is the baked cake:
I did not follow the “let it cool” instructions before glazing, because I had no intention of flipping it upside down, so instead I just drowned the thing in the lemon syrup and let it cool in situ. And let me say, I’m awfully glad I followed my new habit of cutting down on sugar in baked goods (I think I used 1 1/2 cups instead of 1 3/4) because that syrup is damn sweet.Â
Which fact did nothing to stop me from devouring this slice.